A Weekend in Montreal

Living in New York, it’s easy to get so wrapped up in the daily cultural offerings that you may find yourself unintentionally going months, even a year, without leaving the borders of New York State. While many urban dwellers dream of escaping to Paris or Berlin for a vacation, the realities of work, social obligations, and financial considerations can keep them from taking that getaway across the Atlantic. The closest thing to an old-world European city in North America is Montreal, where you can indulge your inner Francophile without breaking the bank, and still be home in time for the Monday grind.

From the minute you enter customs, all signs (by legal requirement) are both in English and French. But once in the city, depending on what areas you travel to, you could find yourself hard-pressed to get directions in English from the locals. However, if you can surmount this linguistic setback, Montreal offers a plethora of jazz clubs, avant-garde and classical theaters, festivals, excellent shopping, an active nightlife scene, and best of all: amazing French bistro cuisine, often at American diner prices.

Between the growing population of Portuguese rotisseries, dim sum in Chinatown, and indigenous provincial French cuisine, you’d find it difficult to go wrong dining-wise. Highlights include the traditional mussels and frites, more rugged fare like venison and smoked meats, and the city’s legendary lowbrow delicacy, poutine. Sweets are represented as well, with dozens of patisseries offering Parisian favorites like macarons and sweet croissants, and shops selling maple candies and fudge, for a sugar rush that’ll keep you warm all day long.

To fully soak in the magic of Montreal, you’ll have to clear your day for a serious walk around the town. While many may point you towards Sainte-Catherine Street or Vieux Montreal’s Old Port, a personal favorite of mine to wander is the hip and vivacious Saint-Denis Street, likened by one Montrealer to the East Village of Canada. Lined with cute shops, quality leather-goods stores, an unending supply of delicious and reasonably priced bistros, and some of the most eccentric nooks in the city, Saint-Denis is not to be missed. One of my favorite shops on this range is Primitive Records, where an in-house DJ plays an eclectic range of hits spanning from Tropicalia to Euro-tinged hip-hop. Careful diggers can expect to find a treasure-trove of rare French language records; tucked away in one of the bins I found an original recording of Anna Karina with the patron saint of French rock himself, Serge Gainsbourg.

Those in search of cutting-edge Montreal youth culture should set out for the neighborhood of Mile End, where hip McGill students and local scenesters congregate in the myriad coffee shops to catch a show or grab a hot drink. And though there’s plenty of luxury-oriented retail to be had elsewhere in the city, make it a point to take a stroll through Saint-Laurent Street, which can frequently yield some relatively interesting antique and vintage hunting, in addition to modern home design studios.

The most important thing to remember when visiting Montreal is to put your do-this go-there mindset aside for the day. One of the best parts of the city is its air of hospitality and relaxation, so be sure to sit down and enjoy a nice glass of wine — especially since many of the city’s best restaurants encourage diners to bring their own bottles. When it’s time to go home, you’ll be sad to leave behind such a charming city. However, even if you only get a weekend here, it’ll be worth it: a little Canadian-style joie de vivre will surely be enough to sustain you through the coming work week.

Headed to Canada? Head first to Tablet, for our selection of the best boutique hotels Montreal.