Vermont Skiing: Tough Love

Growing up in Northern California, I was spoiled rotten when it came to skiing. Lake Tahoe was three and a half hours away, and as if proximity to the majestic Sierra Nevada wasn’t enough, my parents augmented our winter-sports lifestyle with regular trips to Deer Valley, Jackson Hole, and Vail. Yes, I know. Rough life.

But let me assure you, this was not a childhood of bunny slopes and leisurely hot cocoa breaks. My dad subscribed to the “first tracks in the morning, last run of the evening” school of skiing. Yes, he was devoted to alpine athleticism, but also to getting his money’s worth. This was a man who would hustle my sister and I through the “ten and under” discount pass line well past puberty; a man who rented a Vail cabin formerly owned by a convicted murderer because the price was right (it was a lovely cabin!); a man who had a penchant for night skiing in the dead of winter. Barreling down double black diamonds in the dark, braving Squaw Valley’s KT-22 during a white-out, suffering a concussion or battling pneumonia, his response was always the same: “You’re a Bradley. You’re tough.”

A few years ago, I relocated to the East Coast with my husband. My name had changed from Bradley to Wagner but I was still, in my mind, tough. Staring down my first Vermont slope, I was filled with a sense of cool entitlement. “You call this an intermediate run?” I thought. “Please.”

This egotism dissolved immediately as I descended. The hard-packed, slippery terrain caused me to flail around like a old-timey cartoon character, skidding out of control, taking an innocent snow-plowing eight-year-old kid down with me, and basically making a spectacle of myself. The consistency of the snow, commonly referred to as “packed granular”, takes some getting used to for a powder skier. In Vermont, most ski resorts typically create 90 per cent of the snow between 10 p.m. and 3 a.m. and groom before the sun comes up, so it’s packed and smooth. But things can get tricky if temperatures warm up, melt, and then freeze the next morning. The result: Ice, ice baby.

Then there were the “obstacles.” On the West Coast, exposed dirt or large boulders tend to be infrequent, and marked with orange “hazard” tape. East Coast slopes are freckled with rocks, ledges, random stumps, and bare patches. But after a few runs — and, admittedly, a local microbrew or two at lunch — I found these variations to be not a nuisance but a bracing challenge. They made me step up my game. They asked me not to drift down in a spaced-out, powdery bliss but, as is so often the case on the East Coast, work a little bit for my pleasure. Ultimately, skiing Vermont made me appreciate my father’s tough-ski love. What’s more, lift tickets are kindly priced, the lines are shorter, and the local flavor in Vermont’s ski towns makes each experience thoroughly unique. I can’t wait for my next winter trip.

STRATTON
Every skier or snowboarder has one mountain that feels like home — it might not be the most luxurious or the most badass, but you just keep going back. For me Stratton is that mountain. It’s just so friendly. I love the awesome variety of independent trails that go off into the woods, and the sense of knowing the mountain intimately. And there’s plenty to explore: Stratton’s fourteen lifts include a high-speed base-to-summit gondola and four six-passenger lifts, with over 2,000 feet of vertical plus the Sunbowl, which is like a separate resort all its own.

If you’re in Stratton, breakfast is a big deal, perhaps the most vital and popular meal of the day. The Lawyer and the Baker hosts almost exclusively skiers and snowboarders. Expect a bit of a wait, then walk up the crazy staircase and enjoy a heartier-than-thou breakfast. You will need it for your day on the mountain, ideally a solid 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For après-ski there are numerous bars and casual restaurants on the mountain and in the village. Or, flaunt your newly blushy cheeks at a romantic dinner. In nearby Londonderry, The Mill Tavern is a classic Vermont barn dining experience. You want farm-to-table? You’ve got it, literally, as sickles and farm equipment hang overhead and rustic American deliciousness is served to a cozy crowd. Note: everything closes by 9 p.m., so get there early.

STOWE
Since the 1930s Stowe has been the getaway of choice for well-heeled New Yorkers, celebrities and mid-century swells. The resort is known for excellent terrain, transcendent woods skiing, and long, narrow runs, with trails snaking though dense maple and birch forests. The mountain has thirteen mile-long lifts, two new high-speed quads and fully automated snowmaking. Mount Mansfield is one of the mightiest east of the Rockies, offering views of Lake Champlain and, on a clear day, Mount Royal in Quebec. Down on the ground, Stowe is home to an Aspen-style enclave of restaurants, bars, boutiques, and upscale spas.

The recently opened Stowe Mountain Lodge is one of the rare feats of inspired design and environmental awareness that doesn’t feel forced. This expansive, utterly chic resort features views of Mount Mansfield and Spruce Peak, art on loan from the Vermont Fine Art Gallery, Simon Pearce light fixtures, the requisite billion-thread-count linens and state-of-the-art LCD televisions. Guestrooms, studios and cabins are available for rent, and the restaurants, lounges, in-room soaking tubs and the state-of-the-art spa ensure that you needn’t ever leave the resort.

If you do venture out for dinner, try Michael’s on the Hill, an 1820s farmhouse jauntily situated on, yes, a hill, with a big-name chef (Michael Kloeti, formerly at Lespinasse St. Regis Hotel in Manhattan) and streamlined countryside decor. Note: Michael’s is closed on Tuesdays, which this author found out the hard way.

A nightcap at the Matterhorn is pretty much mandatory to round out your Stowe experience. Do not let its somewhat troubling official name deter you (Matterhorn Bar & Sushi Restaurant) for this is a classic, old-school après-ski scene replete with friendly locals, wood-fire-oven pizza, and gargantuan cocktails. Yes, there will be pool, and jam bands, and lots of guys with beards. Roll with it!