Reconsider Room Service

It might be said that an era ended in 2005 when the Times Square Howard Johnson’s closed its doors — an era of sub-standard hotel restaurants, establishments which left a seemingly indelible stain on the very idea of an eatery which could be entered via the lobby of a hotel.

A visitor to today’s New York would hardly recognize such an idea. So hot has hotel dining become, in fact, that new off-lobby restaurants are opening practically weekly. (We’ll see you soon, Tenpenny and The Trilby, promise.)

Though many of the hotels mentioned below have outposts elsewhere, their New York restaurants give them a specificity, an all-important sense of location by tapping into or, in some cases, re-shaping the food scene. The ones we feature showcase the best of the city’s dining trends: from Michael White’s elegant Italian-French cooking to the studied cool of David Chang to Danny Meyer’s comforting friendliness. And that’s why they’re all constantly crowded. Make reservations if you can.

The Breslin, April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman’s beloved gastropub, was only the beginning. The funky Ace Hotel now has a sandwich shop (No. 7 Sub), a café (Stumptown), and an excellent seafood restaurant (the John Dory Oyster Bar). Hipster hangout? Sure, but with antique, mismatched miscellanea, wall-mounted antlers, and loads of leather, this is a hotel for anyone who likes food but dislikes the word “foodie.” It’s slightly less packed at breakfast (try the fried peanut butter and bourbon sandwich). It’s an embarrassment of riches, almost a theme park devoted to the gustatory pleasures, and a useful yardstick against which to measure the efforts of some other Manhattan hotels.

A few blocks to the south and east, in the Gramercy Park Hotel, Maialino offers Roman specialties on checked tablecloths. Servers wear jeans and oxfords, a down-home atmosphere that contrasts with the bold colors and lush textures throughout the rest of the hotel. But that’s what you get when you pair nice guy Danny Meyer, whose multitudinous restaurants are all known for genuine hospitality, with hotelier (and nightlife legend) Ian Schrager. Somehow it all works, as does the ricotta ravioli and pig’s foot.

In the meatpacking district, The Standard sets the, er, standard for hotel bars with its rooftop extravaganza: glam, glam, and more glam. But the Standard Grill is worth a stop, for its seasonal New American fare. This is cooking from the greenmarket at its strongest. Head for the big red booths in back and try a pork chop from the Berkshires, or freshly caught bass sauced with pistachio and black truffles. Just make sure you’re not wearing last season’s whatever.

Once upon a time, the Bowery was synonymous with rummies and gin blossoms. The Bowery Hotel has spearheaded a revitalization of the area, drawing a totally different drinker. (Hollywood starlets who shall remain nameless have stopped by on occasion.) Nevertheless, the easy Italian entrées at Gemma are as appealing as the drinks. Scallops, pizza, pappardelle, and other unpretentious fare get served on rough-hewn tables in a thoughtfully lit space finished in wood and brass.

SoHo’s Mondrian and Smyth have Imperial No. 9 and Plein Sud, respectively. The former’s white interior, with its glass sculptures and mirrors, complements its emphasis on sustainable seafood: icy chill equals dead seriousness. Still, the food, from Top Chef-er Sam Talbot, shows playfulness, as in cauliflower fritters with liquid interiors. After a rocky start, Plein Sud, headed by another Top Chef alum, Ed Cotton, has settled into putting out comforting French fare, such as moules frites and coq au vin. The dining area, with its giant windows and bigger floral arrangements, encourages lingering.

In midtown, Michael White’s ritzy Ai Fiori, at the Setai Fifth Avenue, takes all that’s amazing about Italian and French cooking (which is to say, a lot), then puts up plates that you won’t want to stop eating, such as braised beef cheek or escargot risotto. Make sure to brush up on your table etiquette before a meal there.

Finally, we come to Má Pêche, which is probably as much a game-changer in the hotel eating scene as the Breslin. David Chang’s temple to meat brings to the Chambers the brazen attitude — and the frequently changing French-Asian menu — so assiduously honed at his Momofuku restaurants in the East Village. If you’re a party of six to ten adventurous friends, order the seven-course Vietnamese beef feast. On the way out, stop at Milk Bar, run by [genius — Ed.] pastry chef Christina Tosi, whose incredible creativity manifests in sweets like the compost cookie®, an unbelievable blend of butterscotch, potato chips, coffee, chocolate chips, pretzels, and oats. And, yes, it’s totally worth the trademark.

Like this feature? Sign up for email alerts and you’ll be the first to know about new content on TabletTalk.