Three years ago, when I proposed to my wife in Mexico City, I decided that dinner at Pujol would be just the way to lead up to the big event. Enrique Olvera is one of the DF’s most revered chefs, known for mixing traditional Mexican cuisine with the French techniques he acquired while studying at the Culinary Institute of America. It was a nine-course meal that lasted nearly three hours. It was a memorable one, for more than just the obvious reasons (she said yes!) — the food was delicious. We feasted on braised beef tongue in salsa verde, shrimp and avocado ravioli, even fried grasshoppers in cactus foam.
Recently we returned to Mexico City to revisit some of our favorites restaurants and try out some new ones. Since not having a meal at Chef Enrique Olvera’s would be an injustice, we decided to check out his new casual restaurant at the beautiful Distrito Capital hotel in Santa Fe, the business district area of Mexico City. Though the look is minimalist (lots of black, white and gray), the flavors are anything but — Chef Olvera works with all the colors of modern Mexican cuisine.
Here’s what we enjoyed:
Fideos con Chile Pasilla Oaxaqueño/ Noodles with Oaxacan Pasilla Chile
The slippery ramen noodles swam in a deep crimson broth of pasilla chile and spices, and were topped with melty quesillo cheese and tender cubes of avocado. It was a playful demonstration of Olvera’s creativity and his appreciation for non-Mexican ingredients.
Pozolito de Camarón con Coco/ Shrimp and Coconut Pozole
We we fearing a heavy Thai-style coconut milk dish, but this was anything but. The light coconut broth went well with the perfectly cooked shrimp. Amazing.
Kakiage de Esquites/ Mixed Corn Kakiage
One of my favorite Mexican snacks is corn topped with Oaxacan cheese, mayonnaise, chile powder and lime. Olvera takes us into the street food scene with his smart rendition of the Mexican favorite, with steamed baby corn and tiny dollops of chile-inflected mayonnaise.
Tacos de Lechuga de Robalito al Pastor / Marinated Sea Bass “Lettuce Tacos”
We ended the meal with his famed “al pastor” tacos. Instead of using traditional corn tortillas, Olvera uses a lettuce wrap so to not overpower the delicate, spice-lathered sea bass. This was cooked beautifully and extremely moist — I could have eaten at least four more!
Tacos de Pulpo a los Cuatro Chiles / Grilled Octopus Tacos
Mexican cuisine shows its true colors most with seafood. This octopus had been blanched and marinated in spices, then grilled for a nice smoky taste. It was a nice reminder that not all seafood has to be eaten in ceviche form.
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