Tuscany, Revisited

I lived in Florence as a young art student studying painting, but Tuscany is where I’m quite certain I became a photographer. There is a quality of light present throughout the region that gifts its cities and landscapes incomparable mystery, beauty, and adventure.

When the invitation to visit L’Andana landed in my inbox, I was ecstatic. “Would you like to return to the part of the world that inspired you to pursue your current reality and stay at the last Grand Duke of Tuscany’s old country palazzo?” My answer, of course, was, “Duh.”

The entrance to L’Andana is marked only by a wrought iron gate and a stone tablet serving vigilance to the estate’s rich history. The gates open to a hundred yard gravel driveway lined in perfect symmetry with cypress and oak trees . My little Fiat Panda rattled across the gravel past a grazing coral of long-horned cows, a massive vineyard, and, in the distance, hillsides upon hillsides of olive groves. The ten-minute drive toward the hotel is worth the room price alone.

The end of this drive reveals a grand stone staircase leading to the bright Tuscan orange palazzo. Entering the hotel is not an overwhelming experience. There is no hustle and bustle in the lobby. Instead, you feel an immediate sense of serenity, just like you would arrive to your own vacation home. Well done, Duke Leopold.

L’Andana’s concierge took me to my room and gave me a tour. Yes, these suites require a tour. After ascending a grand marble staircase and walking through arched hallways drenched in light, the soft peach room interior offers a womblike calm. The massive windows overlook the vineyards and olive groves and are dressed in rich Florentine silk curtains. The staircase leading to the office nook houses Harry Potter-like closets and a mini bar stocked with estate-pressed olive oil and Maremma’s greatest hits of wine varieties. The pièce de résistance: the bathtub. I took three baths a day while I was there — and I’m not really a bath person.

I arrived just in time for dinner. I’ll be honest, I planned it that way. World-renowned chef and hotelier, Alain Ducasse and wine-producer, Vittorio Moretti, own L’Andana. The dinner menu at La Villa offers simple, rustic and just plain delicious food. I feasted in the hotel garden as the sun dropped and watched fireflies and candlelight illuminate the perfectly manicured lawn. It was very clear to me at that moment, my stay was to be all about the land, the food, a lot of wine, and, of course, photography.

I highly recommend spending a bit of time in the nearby ancient town of Castiglione della Pescaia, which happens to have excellent beaches. This part of Tuscany is cowboy country, so another activity (in addition to sunning by the Tyrrhenian Sea) is horseback riding — the hotel can arrange for a ride through the coastal natural reserve. Or, simply stroll the well-aged streets of this fortress town, perhaps finishing the day with a cocktail at the top of the hill.

My last two days at the hotel were comprised of long walks through the vineyards, hours of naps by the majestic pools, and luxurious baths. I left L’Andana inspired, rejuvenated and supremely relaxed, reminded of the landscape and the light that had so profoundly altered my worldview as a young artist.

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