September 20, 2011

Jumping Down The Rabbit Hole

Arriving at L.A.'s Petit Ermitage
Photos and story by Gray Malin

Even after living in West Hollywood for over four years, just a few blocks away, I had somehow never been to the unpredictable, unprecedented, uncanny Petit Ermitage.

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Upon entering the lobby, past a bird cage and an old working gramophone, I was greeted with a plate of fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies. Distracted, I half-noticed a fabulous painting, which turned out to be a hand-signed Dalí original, alongside a pair of Erté drawings. While checking in I was informed that the Petit Ermitage is home to hundreds of artworks by the likes of Rauschenberg, Miró, De Kooning, and a resident artist who is constantly adding his own work to the hotel’s walls.

After settling into my room I began to explore the hotel. Each of the 80 suites comes with more than just the customary king bed — they’ve got ancient Turkish carpets, walls of hand-troweled Venetian plaster, railings form India, tiles from Morocco and pillow shams hand-crafted in the Old City of Jerusalem. The resident artist had extended the lines of the hallway carpets onto the walls, the staircase was its own chalk-art masterpiece, and I even found hand-painted eyes coming out of the walls in the ATM booth. And after I thought I had seen it all, I came to a stairway leading up to the roof deck.

Many hotels in Los Angeles have roof decks, but none quite like this. It’s divided into four areas: an elegant pool deck, a comfy day-bed section, a large fireplace patio and my favorite part, the garden terrace.

From the Butterfly Bar, named for the design that’s painted on the antique barn doors hanging behind the bar, a large open doorway leads you into a bright space that seems unreal at first glance. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing: a hand-laid brick path led me into a long, narrow garden terrace with private dining nooks tucked into corners, surrounded by wild plants, tiled fountains and ivy-covered trellises. A hummingbird landed on a vine next to my table while I was sipping my first “Respitini” (as in respite-tini) — the roof terrace is a sanctuary, recognized by the National Wildlife Federation, where butterflies and hummingbirds come and go freely.

As the sun set on a fabulous view of the Hollywood Hills, the candles throughout the garden began to glow, and a rare Los Angeles silence set in, beneath the tranquil music and the bubbling of the fountain. Dinner was a story unfolding in chapters: foie gras and duck confit, an octopus tagine, Scottish salmon, Moroccan tuna and filet mignon carpaccio. It was enough to make me weak in the knees.

After it was all over, as we walked through the Butterfly Bar back towards the elevator, I spotted the resident artist working on his current masterpiece, in the new rooftop bathroom. I paused to snap a picture of his work and a man named Grant appeared and introduced himself: “I’m the Liaison to Happiness, and we do hope you had a wonderful and delightful time.”

As the elevator doors closed, I had to check with my fiancée. “He did say he was the Liaison to Happiness, right?” A quick nod and a smile and I was sold. I couldn’t wait to get back to the outside world, and tell everyone I knew about this magical place. Take my advice, I’m your new Liaison to Happiness.

Click here to view more on the Petit Ermitage.

From November 11 through December 30, book the Shop Hollywood! package and receive a welcome glass of Champagne, “Petit Dejeuner” for two, complimentary valet parking and WIFI as well as 20% off at boutiques like Alberta Ferretti, M Cohen, Anya Hindmarch, Paige Denim, John Varvatos, and Ports 1961.

Gray Malin is a photographer based in Los Angeles.
  • Grant Ruta  September 20th, 2011 6:38 pm

    Dear Grey,

    That was a beautiful article! Thank you so much and I hope to see you and your fiancee back here in the very near future. Warmest regards, Grant the Liaison to Happiness

  • Kasia Mychajlowycz  September 24th, 2011 8:53 am

    This place sounds amazing. Also, there’s a typo in the second paragraph.

  • Deborah Weinstein  September 24th, 2011 9:00 am

    What an awesome hotel. Hope to stay there when next in LA. Love the Liason of Happiness.

  • anne baxter  September 24th, 2011 9:32 am

    info please

  • Philomena Jean Maria DeBiase  September 24th, 2011 9:53 am

    Seeking Happiness and Whispers from Hummingbirds…

  • Barbara  September 24th, 2011 11:17 am

    This sounds to good to be true! But, imagine it is for probably an astronomical price! Any specials for hardship cases? Willing to work to stay;) just to get a glimpse & taste of happiness? Kind regard from a distraught dreamer like in the movies ie. “Hollywood;)!”

  • Leo  September 24th, 2011 11:25 am

    Sounds like a great hotel, until I got to the restaurant and it’s foie gras. I can only imagine the other horrible items that might lurk on it’s menu. The roof terrace may be recognized as a sanctuary, but anyone interested in communing with nature will probably want to stay away. And to think this is in West Hollywood!

  • Ariana  September 24th, 2011 1:11 pm

    She lives on Love Street… lingers long on Love Street. She has a house and garden; I would like to see what happens…

  • Deborah  September 24th, 2011 1:51 pm

    Sounds like my kind of vacation!

  • chris hosford  September 24th, 2011 3:05 pm

    Cool. I’ve lived in West Hollywood for 17 years and can’t believe I’ve missed this. Thanks for letting us know

  • Willow  September 24th, 2011 5:25 pm

    Having personally stayed there on more than 5 occasions, I believe that while the “pros” you’ve mentioned in this article are spot on, it is worthwhile to balance it with some “cons.”
    1) The service in the garden restaurant is miserably slow. The food itself is excellent, and the garden beautiful, so if you’ve got nothing else to do in the day, spending well over 2 hours for breakfast or lunch may sound fantastic. However, if you have plans, such as visiting the Getty or catching a flight, be prepared that even a “we’re in a rush” may not speed your servers to an adequate and attentive pace.

    2) Parts (or all) of the rooftop are frequently reserved for private parties. This means that if you’re simply an average non-event patron, you may end up getting the shaft when all you wanted to do was hang out by the pool or the firepit. If you live in the area and just want to hide away in the hotel for a day or two, it may serve your interests to call ahead and find out if you’ll actually have use of the rooftop during your stay.

    3) The front desk is hit or miss, both in attitude and service. I’ve had everything from the LA “you’re not worthy/cool enough/famous enough for me to even crack a smile” attitude to some of the most gracious and welcoming service staff I’ve come across in my travels. Just don’t ask them to make reservations for anything in or out of house unless you plan to do lots of follow up to ensure everything is good to go.

    4) Despite his official title, I still don’t know what the heck Grant does, and no one I’ve brought here can figure it out, either, though I have observed he appears to make himself more accessible to certain guests over others. I’m fairly independent when traveling, so this isn’t a major issue, but personally I like to know clearly and explicitly what an employee’s duties are so I know who to best contact and how to utilize him/her if needed during a stay.

    Now, all that said, I still occasionally stay here when I have to travel to LA. Why?
    1) The rooms are indeed wonderfully quirky can full of creative/romantic character.

    2) For the room size and the quality, you cannot beat the price in West Hollywood.

    3) French Press Coffee. Enough said.

    4) The improvement in service over the past 1.5 years since my initial stay has been gradual but steady.

    5)When you really do have nothing to do, whiling away half the day in the garden restaurant area is possibly one of the most relaxing and refreshing options available in all of LA.

  • Michele  October 1st, 2011 12:02 am

    Thanks so much for the article. Seems like a piece of 1920s Paris and Wonderland all wrapped in one. I clearly have to plan a trip now…

  • Laura  October 23rd, 2011 1:41 am

    Great place for locals. Kind of awful for visitors unless you crave that outsider feeling. Unfriendly, uninterested staff. Pool deck is packed with neighborhoodies. Very spacious, cool guest rooms, though.

 

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