A Weekend in Portland

Portland, Oregon is a food town. You might be tempted to say the same of your city (San Francisco? New York? Chicago?), but take my word when I say it’s just not the same.

Does this superlative speak sound familiar? Probably. In the past five years, Portland’s reputation as a destination for dining has taken on proportions so mythic as to approach comedic (Portlandia, ahem). People just go nuts over this place—mostly for the food, but also the wine, beer and coffee—and after a while, it can be hard to take all that praise in earnest.

I visited over a recent long weekend to scope out the place myself. What I discovered surprised me: the city actually exceeded my expectations, those ones I presumed were artificially high. I ate my way through the city without abandon, living out my own Very Hungry Caterpillar fantasy, though I’m still waiting for that metamorphosis. To skeptics, I’d argue that Portland’s food obsession is more than a reputation (defined as what one is thought to be by others); this is its character (what one is).

Here’s one-third of the itinerary that sealed the deal:

Wake up at the Jupiter. You’ll be in Northeast, though just barely. The city is divided into quadrants (NE, NW, SE, SW), and the Jupiter is on Burnside Street, which defines the north from the south. The boundary between east and west is the Willamette River, which runs smack through the middle of the city, dividing the landscape as the Seine does for Paris. The east side would be the Left Bank — a bit edgier and more boho, though you can find those qualities throughout the city. But the east side does feel particularly young and lively, including the scene at the Jupiter. Their adjoining music venue/lounge, the Doug Fir, hosts live music acts most nights of the week, and the hotel’s quirky and eco-conscientious vibe draws creative types in droves.

Rent bikes and caffeinate. If you’re coming from anywhere besides California, take advantage of the time difference by getting an early start. With most guests still snoozing off last night’s festivities, you’ll have your pick of the litter when it comes to the Jupiter’s Electra bikes. Peddle south to Coava Coffee Roasters (1300 SE Grand Ave.). You may think of Portland as Stumptown-town, but Coava is making headway with the most fickle palettes. Their space, lofty and industrial, feels more like a coffee lab than “shop,” and is a telling indicator of their scientific approach to preparing good coffee. Order a cappuccino and watch as it’s poured to perfection in the most unhurried way. With large tables and friendly baristas, this is the kind of coffee shop that invites you to linger, which is okay since it’s still early.

Tummy rumbling? Hit the farmers market. Join up with other bikers, runners and strollers crossing the pedestrian-friendly Hawthorne Bridge. You’ll pass over the waterfront park that stretches northward. It’s a tempting distraction, but stay focused, the PSU Farmers Market awaits. This Saturday food fest takes place in one of the college’s shaded quadrangles and is a feast of riches. Dozens of farm stands sell local flowers and produce, and now there’s a dizzying number of vendors preparing dishes to be enjoyed on the spot. For brunch, graze on huevos rancheros with a heaping pile of veggies from Verde Cocina, or a slice of pizza from Via Chicago, or if you’re willing to brave the line, a chicken biscuit from Pine State Biscuits. Or d) all of the above.

Rest. You deserve it. Or more likely, you’ve overdone it and you need a break from all that eating. Treat yourself to a trim at 220 Salon (213 SW Ash St. # 211). Get your hair cut on vacation? The answer is yes, a resounding yes. The stylists at 220 are way warmer (and less pricey) than the gals back east, and they’ll give you the low-maintenance ‘do you’ve always wanted, not to mention another dozen or so suggestions for where to eat and drink during your stay. Bask in their sunshine-filled loft until you’re ready for round two vs. Food.

Back over the bridge. The lines for Voodoo Doghnut (22 SW 3rd Ave.) will snake around the block, potentially interfering with your bike’s forward progress. Either give in and sample something wacky like a Maple Bacon or Triple Chocolate Penetration (chocolate with chocolate icing topped with Cocoa Puffs) or dodge that caloric bullet and head over the Burnside Bridge to Produce Row (204 SE Oak St.) for happy hour. Produce Row, its name a nod to the neighborhood’s fruit-packing history, is not necessarily the newest or the best bar in Portland, but it is everything that you look for in a late afternoon watering hole. There’s a proper restaurant and bar in the front and in the back, an open-air courtyard with picnic tables. The atmosphere is low-key and collegial, so take this opportunity to make friends with your benchmates as you enjoy a Paloma (tequila, grapefruit, with a splash of soda).

Nearing the finish. After a quick refresh back at the hotel, haul yourself to Le Pigeon (738 E Burnside St.) for dinner, conveniently across the street. It is restaurants like Le Pigeon that put Portland on the map in the first place, and after ordering even just your first course, you’ll understand why. Simply put, flavors are spot-on. The plate of crispy octopus will leave you licking your lips, wondering just what that mysterious umami-ish accompaniment could be (porcini mushroom puree). There’s no bad seat in the house, but sitting at the counter is a treat. From there, you can watch the young, tattooed and phenomenally talented chef Gabriel Rucker, winner of this year’s Rising Star Award from the James Beard Foundation, go to work. For a truly insane ending to this food marathon, order a plate of the restaurant’s signature foie gras profiteroles. That’s right, foie gras profiteroles.

You won’t have any trouble filling out an agenda for days two and three (Natural Selection! Broder! Pok Pok! Andina!), but if you do, it will be the good kind — too many excellent edibles to squeeze into 72 hours. There will be some casualties, but don’t leave disheartened; embrace it as a sense of duty to return and pick up right where you left off.

Like this feature? Subscribe to our RSS or follow us on Tumblr, Facebook or Twitter.