A Hood With History, On the Rise

This year marks the tenth anniversary of the Calatrava-designed wing of the Milwaukee Art Museum. What better occasion to take a second look at this laid-back Midwestern city?


Needless to say, there has always been more to Milwaukee than beer and brats. But developments like the museum’s Quadracci Pavilion and the opening of the Harley-inspired Iron Horse Hotel in 2008 have helped reinvigorate its dusty image. Hardly by coincidence, the Iron Horse’s hood, the Fifth Ward and its adjacent Historic Third Ward, has become the epicenter of the cool new Milwaukee.

Here’s what’s not to miss:

Start your day on the right foot with a cup of joe from Alterra Coffee. Typical of most businesses in the area, Alterra is housed in a warehouse space, complete with poured concrete floors and super-high ceilings. It’s on the large size for a coffee shop, but that just means there’s room for everyone, from freelancers to families. They also roast their beans locally and offer great breakfast and lunch menus to boot.

When it comes to grub, the district is anchored by the Milwaukee Public Market, best described as a food lover’s paradise. It’s home to about twenty independent vendors, selling everything from spices from far away lands to Wisconsin cheeses. For those seeking a culinary challenge, cooking workshops are also hosted at the market.

For a less edible shopping experience, head to The Home Market, a housewares shop on Eerie Street. Owner Kate Barrette is a Wisconsin native and veteran of the industry, having spent more than ten years as a buyer at Rachel Ashwell Shabby Chic. Her aesthetic is irresistible, selecting the best of fail-safe labels like John Robshaw and Dash & Albert and introducing new designers like Japan’s Fog Linen Work.

Crazy Water may have once been one of Milwaukee’s best-kept secrets. That is, until last year, when chef and owner Peggy Magister was nominated in the “Best Midwestern Chef” category by the James Beard Foundation. And it’s been a destination for inspired American dining ever since. Magister has created a inventive yet unpretentious menu, and the atmosphere is personal and warm.

Cap the night with a brew (when in Rome…) and a round of pool at Smyth inside the Iron Horse. In warmer months, large garage doors open to create a semi-open-air space and the party often spills out on the patio. In the winter, cozy up in one the deep banquettes or by the fire in the library.

Reported by Melissa Skoog Dunagan, a PR consultant with a fashion & food blog on the side (OnMyPlate.com). Alterra Coffee image via John December. Milwaukee Public Market image via Kelly Hafermann